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Evaluation of Residues of Amazonian Fruit Piquia ( Caryocar villosum) as Sustainable Ingredient for Sunscreen and Cosmetic Formulations

ORCID
0000-0003-2356-9315
Affiliation
School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Av. do Café, s/n, Vila Monte Alegre, Ribeirao Preto 14040-900, SP, Brazil
de Souza, Izadora;
Affiliation
School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Av. do Café, s/n, Vila Monte Alegre, Ribeirao Preto 14040-900, SP, Brazil
Grimmelprez, Gabriella C. P.;
Affiliation
Institute of Health and Biotechnology, Federal University of Amazonas, Coari 69460-000, AM, Brazil
Yamaguchi, Klenicy K. L.;
Affiliation
Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Allergology, Charité–Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
Schleusener, Johannes;
ORCID
0000-0001-8156-0074
Affiliation
Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Allergology, Charité–Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
Lohan, Silke B.;
Affiliation
Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Allergology, Charité–Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
Meinke, Martina C.;
Affiliation
School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Av. do Café, s/n, Vila Monte Alegre, Ribeirao Preto 14040-900, SP, Brazil
Gaspar, Lorena R.

Amazonian fruit residues like piquia shells are often discarded despite their antioxidant potential for sustainable cosmetic use. This study evaluated the photostability, phototoxicity, and photoprotection of hydroalcoholic piquia shell extract (PqSE) combined with UV filters in solutions and cosmetic formulations. PqSE formulations were photostable, even stabilizing photounstable UV filters. Phototoxicity tests (OECD TG 432) showed no phototoxic potential (MPE < 0.15) and reduction in the phototoxic potential of UV filters, while ocular irritation potential via HET-CAM assay indicated no irritant effects. The extract combined with UV filters enhanced protection against UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, achieving 60.9% effectiveness, outperforming commercial photostabilizers. Against UVB radiation, it showed cellular viability above 80%, comparable to benzophenone-3. PqSE formulations exhibited a radical protection factor (RPF) nine times higher than controls and reduced radical production by 64% after visible/near-infrared (VIS/NIR) irradiation on porcine skin, compared to 38% for controls. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy showed penetration depths below 12 µm for all time points. This study highlights the potential of reusing fruit residues like PqSE as sustainable, effective ingredients in sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced photoprotection and reduced environmental waste.

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